Hanging artwork sounds straightforward until you are standing in front of the wall with a pencil, a measuring tape, and the sudden awareness that the first hole will feel very permanent.
The good news is that most artwork does not require specialist equipment or complicated calculations. A little planning, the right fixing for your wall, and a reliable starting height will take you most of the way.
Lavi Dou Gallery offers four formats:
- unframed art prints;
- framed art prints;
- stretched canvas prints;
- framed canvas prints.
Each format needs to be handled a little differently. An unframed paper print must first be framed or mounted before it can be displayed safely. Framed prints generally arrive with hanging hardware attached, while stretched and framed canvases are designed to hang directly from their wooden structure using an appropriate nail or screw.
This guide explains how to position and hang each format so that your new artwork feels balanced, secure, and properly connected to the room.
What you will need
Before you begin, gather a few basic tools:
- a pencil;
- a measuring tape;
- a spirit level;
- painter’s tape;
- a hammer;
- suitable nails, screws, or picture hooks;
- wall anchors when required;
- and paper templates if you are planning a multi-piece arrangement.
A stud finder can also be useful for heavier pieces or larger framed works.
The exact fixing depends on two things: the weight of the artwork and the wall material. Drywall, plaster, brick, masonry, and wood all behave differently. Always check the stated weight capacity of the fixing before using it.
Start with the right location
Before measuring anything, decide where the artwork should live.
Consider the scale of the work in relation to the wall and the furniture around it. A very small print may feel lost on a wide, empty wall, while an oversized canvas may overwhelm a narrow section.
When hanging artwork above a sofa, bed, console, or sideboard, center it in relation to the furniture rather than automatically centering it on the entire wall. The artwork and furniture should feel like one composition.
Also think about the viewing angle. Art in a hallway is usually seen while standing. Art in a dining room or living room may be viewed mainly while seated. That difference can influence the most comfortable height.
Before making a mark, ask someone to hold the piece against the wall while you step back. View it from the room’s entrance and from the places where you will see it most often.
How high should you hang artwork?
A reliable starting point is to position the center of the artwork approximately 57 to 60 inches—or about 145 to 152 centimeters—from the floor.
This places the center near average eye level and generally works well on open walls.
The important word is center. Do not measure 57 inches to the top or bottom of the frame.
For example, if a framed print is 30 inches tall:
- half the frame height is 15 inches;
- a 57-inch center height places the top of the frame at approximately 72 inches;
- you then adjust for the location of the hanger on the back.
This is a starting point, not an inflexible rule. In rooms where people are mainly seated, the artwork may look better slightly lower. Above furniture, the relationship to the furniture matters more than following the eye-level rule exactly.
The right height is the point where the artwork feels connected to the room—not stranded above it.
Hanging artwork above furniture
When artwork is placed above a sofa, headboard, console, or sideboard, leave enough space for the two elements to breathe without allowing them to drift apart visually.
A useful starting point is approximately 6 to 10 inches between the top of the furniture and the bottom of the artwork.
The artwork or full arrangement should also be reasonably proportioned to the furniture beneath it. As a general guide, aim for an artwork or grouping that spans roughly two-thirds to three-quarters of the furniture’s width.
These measurements can be adjusted. A small work can still look intentional when paired with a lamp, vase, stack of books, or second artwork. What matters is that the result feels balanced rather than accidental.
How to hang an unframed art print
An unframed art print should not ordinarily be attached directly to the wall with nails, pins, adhesive putty, or tape. These methods can puncture, crease, stain, or otherwise damage the paper.
The safest approach is to frame the print before hanging it.
Choose a suitable frame
Select a frame that matches the print’s dimensions or use a mat to accommodate a larger frame. Whenever possible, choose acid-free or archival-quality backing and matting materials.
A frame protects the print from:
- handling;
- dust;
- accidental contact;
- moisture;
- and gradual environmental damage.
Glazing can provide further protection, particularly when the print is displayed in a busy room.
Avoid direct sunlight and moisture
Do not place an art print where strong sunlight falls directly on it for extended periods. Even high-quality printing materials can fade over time under prolonged ultraviolet exposure.
Avoid damp or highly humid locations unless the print is properly framed and protected. Bathrooms, kitchens, and walls directly beside heating or cooling vents require particular care.
Hang according to the frame
Once the print has been framed, follow the instructions for the frame’s attached hardware. The fixing must support the complete framed weight—not simply the paper print.
How to hang a framed art print
Lavi Dou Gallery’s framed prints arrive with hanging hardware fitted to the back. Depending on the frame size and production specifications, this may take the form of a cobra-style hanger, one or more sawtooth hangers, or another built-in frame-hanging system.
You will generally need to supply the wall fixing: usually an appropriate nail, picture hook, screw, or wall anchor.
Step 1: Check the back of the frame
Before measuring the wall, inspect the attached hanger.
Determine:
- whether the frame has one central hanger or two;
- how far the hanger sits below the top edge;
- whether it needs to rest on a nail, screw, or hook;
- and whether the frame’s weight requires an anchor.
Larger frames may use more substantial or multiple hanging points to distribute the weight more evenly.
Step 2: Decide on the visual center
Choose the desired center height—usually between 57 and 60 inches from the floor, unless the work is being placed above furniture.
Measure the complete height of the frame and divide it by two.
Step 3: Calculate the hook position
Use this formula:
Desired center height + half the frame height − distance from the top of the frame to the hanger = hook height
For example:
- desired center height: 57 inches;
- frame height: 30 inches;
- half the frame height: 15 inches;
- hanger sits 4 inches below the top.
The calculation is:
57 + 15 − 4 = 68 inches
Place the hook approximately 68 inches above the floor.
Step 4: Install the correct fixing
For lightweight framed prints on a suitable wall, a picture hook or nail may be enough. Heavier frames may require a screw, wall plug, or drywall anchor.
When using a nail, angling it slightly upward can improve stability. Follow the instructions supplied with the wall fixing.
Step 5: Hang and level the frame
Place the frame on the fixing and use a spirit level to confirm that it is straight.
Step back and look at the piece from across the room. A frame can be technically level but still appear slightly off because of nearby furniture or architectural details. Make a small visual adjustment where needed.
How to hang a stretched canvas print
A stretched canvas consists of printed canvas wrapped around a wooden sub-frame. Because the wooden structure is part of the product, the canvas can hang directly from it.
According to the production specifications for Lavi Dou Gallery’s canvases, separate hanging equipment is not included. In most cases, the canvas is designed to rest directly on one or more suitable nails or screws.
Step 1: Choose the right position
Use the same placement principles as you would for a framed print:
- begin near eye level;
- relate the canvas to nearby furniture;
- and check the scale against the wall.
Because canvas has more depth than a paper print, it can carry greater visual weight even without an external frame.
Step 2: Choose a fixing appropriate to the size
For a small or standard canvas on a suitable wall, one properly positioned nail or screw may be sufficient.
For a larger or heavier canvas, use two nails or screws spaced across the upper portion of the wooden sub-frame. This spreads the load, helps keep the canvas level, and reduces the chance of tilting.
Do not attach hanging wire to the canvas unless the product has been specifically designed for it. Wire can cause a deep canvas to lean away from the wall rather than sitting flush.
Step 3: Rest the wooden sub-frame on the fixings
Measure carefully so the top section of the wooden sub-frame rests securely on the nail or screw.
Avoid allowing the canvas fabric itself to bear the weight.
Step 4: Check that it sits level and flush
Once hung, use a spirit level to check the position.
Look at the canvas from the side. The wooden sub-frame should sit evenly against the wall rather than bowing or projecting outward at one edge.
How to hang a framed canvas print
A framed canvas combines a stretched canvas with an outer decorative frame. It therefore has more depth and weighs more than an unframed stretched canvas.
Like the stretched canvas, Lavi Dou Gallery’s framed canvas prints are intended to hang using appropriate wall fixings rather than separate wire supplied with the product.
Check the rear structure
Turn the framed canvas over and identify the solid upper section of the structure that will rest against the fixing.
The wall fixing should support the wooden structure—not the canvas material or decorative edge.
Use one or two secure fixing points
A smaller framed canvas may hang safely from one central nail or screw when the structure and wall allow it.
For larger sizes, use two well-spaced fixings. This provides better stability and helps keep the frame level.
Because a framed canvas may be heavier than a standard stretched canvas, wall anchors or screws into a stud may be appropriate.
Allow for the added depth
Check the framed canvas from both the front and side. It should sit evenly and should not appear to tilt downward.
If it projects away from the wall, confirm that the fixings are level and that both sides of the rear structure are resting securely.
Hanging pairs and collector sets
When hanging two related works, treat them as one complete composition.
Find the visual center of the pair and place that center around eye level. Do not independently center each piece if that breaks the relationship between them.
A good starting gap is approximately 2 to 3 inches between frames. Larger works may need slightly more space, but the pieces should remain close enough to read as a set.
Plan the arrangement first
Lay the pieces on the floor or lean them against the wall before hanging them.
Check:
- whether the top or center lines should align;
- whether the works should be vertical or horizontal;
- and whether one composition feels visually heavier than the other.
Use paper templates or painter’s tape to test the final arrangement on the wall.
How to hang a gallery wall
A gallery wall can include different frame sizes, orientations, artists, and media. Cohesion does not require everything to match, but the arrangement needs some visual logic.
Choose a relationship between the works
A gallery wall may be unified by:
- a shared color palette;
- a subject;
- a region or island;
- matching frames;
- repeated spacing;
- or a mixture of works that reflects the collector’s personal story.
Treat the arrangement as one large artwork
Lay the complete arrangement on the floor.
Measure the total width and height, identify its visual center, and position that center around eye level.
Keep spacing consistent
A gap of approximately 2 to 3 inches—or 5 to 8 centimeters—between frames is a useful starting point.
Consistency matters more than the exact number. Irregular gaps can make an otherwise thoughtful arrangement feel unsettled.
Use paper templates
Trace each frame onto paper, cut out the shapes, and tape them to the wall.
This allows you to adjust the arrangement without making unnecessary holes. Mark the hanger position directly on each paper template before installing the wall fixings.
Hanging art in different rooms
Living room
Artwork is frequently viewed from a seated position. Above a low sofa or console, the work may need to sit slightly below standard standing eye level.
Dining room
Keep artwork visually connected to the table and chairs. A somewhat lower placement often feels more comfortable because viewers are seated.
Bedroom
Above a headboard, begin with a gap of roughly 6 to 10 inches. Adjust according to the headboard height and the scale of the artwork.
Hallway
The standard 57-to-60-inch center height works well because the artwork is usually viewed while standing and walking past.
Staircase
Follow the angle of the stairs. Imagine a diagonal line passing through the centers of the frames, parallel to the stair rise.
Kitchen or bathroom
Humidity, grease, heat, and condensation can affect paper prints and canvases.
Avoid placing artwork directly above:
- a stove;
- a sink;
- a radiator;
- a shower;
- or another source of sustained heat or moisture.
Framed prints with glazing are generally easier to protect in these environments than exposed paper or canvas, but ventilation and placement still matter.
Can you hang artwork without making a hole?
Sometimes.
Removable adhesive strips and hooks can work for small, lightweight framed pieces when:
- the product is rated for the artwork’s weight;
- the wall surface is clean and compatible;
- and the manufacturer’s instructions are followed exactly.
They may be useful for renters, but they are not automatically the safest choice for every artwork or wall finish.
Larger framed prints, canvases, and framed canvases generally require a more secure nail, screw, hook, or anchor.
A small nail hole is usually easier to repair than damage caused by a heavy piece falling from an unsuitable adhesive strip.
Before making the first hole
Run through this checklist:
- Have you chosen the right wall and position?
- Is the artwork’s center close to eye level?
- Does it relate comfortably to the furniture beneath it?
- Have you identified the product’s rear hanging structure?
- Is the fixing suitable for the artwork’s weight?
- Is the fixing appropriate for the wall material?
- Have you accounted for the distance between the frame top and hanger?
- Have you checked the position from across the room?
- Are multiple works spaced consistently?
- Have you used a level?
Then hang the work and allow yourself to live with it.
A piece may eventually move to another wall. You might add a second work, change the furniture, or build a larger collection around it. A home is not a static exhibition, and the first placement does not have to be permanent.
The objective is not to achieve museum-level precision. It is to give the artwork a secure, considered place where you can enjoy seeing it every day.
